Rose Tips by Al Karsten
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April 14, 2000
While we anxiously await the arrival of spring, we can look forward to the beautiful blooms from our roses. Before we can appreciate the roses, we have work to do.
Old established roses need to be pruned back from April 15th to early May. Cut back dead (black) canes to 12" but no taller than 28". If we have a severe cold spell, later in April, the black canes will need to be cutback again to the green portion on the cane. Leave approximately 6 canes on the bush as you cut back old growth. Cut other canes back to the union bud on the bush. The new energy will go to the 6 canes, instead of all 12 or more, producing larger canes for the bush at the beginning of new growth. Eventually you will have more canes as the bush grows and develops. When pruning back the old canes hand pruners should be sharp and the blades cleaned with alcohol or bleach. After every 5th rose bush clean your hand pruners again to prevent spreading any disease which could be on the rose bush.
Once you have pruned back your roses, dig a shallow trench, with a trowel, about 6 inches from the main trunk of the bush. Apply an 8 oz. cup of 13-13-13 fertilizer. Use this analysis of fertilizer if you do not have your soil analyzed, as discussed later in the article. Once you have finished applying the fertilizer, apply l/2 cup of Epson salts around each bush---in the same trench with the fertilizer. The Epson salts encourage plants to send up strong canes from the bud union. Water these two applications in thoroughly. WATER is what makes roses grow--not fertilizer. When you are through watering, with a garden tool or your hand, cover the trench. As you are working with the soil in April try to remove all dead leaves that remain in the rose bed. This will prevent black spot or another disease from being carried to the new growth on the rose bush.
Once you notice new growth on the rose canes, it is time to start your weekly spray program. No vacation! Spray with a fungicide for blackpsot and powdery mildew (occurs in humid weather) every 7 to 10 days, preferable in the morning. Spray under and on top of all leaves. For the first couple of sprayings in the spring also spray the soil around each bush to kill any spores remaining over in the soil from last year. Blackspot disease disfigures foliage and weakens plants. I use Funginex liquid spray each week except the last week of every month. I then use liquid Daconil for my fungicide application--follow directions. In other words, 3 weeks of applications of a fungicide and one week using Daconil. If you continue to use the same fungicide you could build up an immunity to the disease. I also use one tablespoon per gallon of water--a soluble fertilizer, which I add to the fungicide in the hand sprayer, such as Miracle-Gro, K-Gro (K-Mart), or Rapid-Gro. This is applied on the leaves of new and older roses. When the ingredients are in the hand sprayer, add one squirt of an inexpensive detergent. Then shake sprayer thoroughly. The soap helps the mixture to adhere to the upper and underside of the leaves. Do not use leftover spray on the rose again or save for the following week. Instead apply it to other flowers such as phlox, lilac, etc. Clean out the sprayer with water when you are through. The roots of rose bushes should have moisture before your weekly spraying, otherwise leaves could be burned. ONE INCH OF WATER per week to all roses if rainfall is limited.
Wait until you see damage from the "bad" insects before you add an insecticide to your spray program. The insecticide can be added to your fungicide and soluble fertilizer in the sprayer. Follow directions on the insecticide container. I use Isotox (liquid) insecticide. Once you start with the insecticide program, you will probably add each week.
If you are preparing a new rose bed this spring, I suggest you have your soil analyzed because it may be too acid or too alkine. The soil needs to be from 6.0pH to 6.5pH to be considered ideal. An analysis can be done through the Johnson County Extension office, 13480 South Arapaho Drive, Olathe, KS 913.764-6300. Call first-they will let you know when they are open and the nominal charge. The analysis results will recommend any changes needed. The effort and small cost will get you started on obtaining prize winning roses.
Roses should be planted in full sun, if possible, If this is not an option, at least six hours of sun daily is required. They produce more blooms faster and the bushes are generally studier. The planting area should be free of tree roots. Roses need good soil drainage. A raised bed is preferred when planting your roses. Roses will not tolerate soggy soil. If you are planting potted roses, dig a hole approximately 18" x 18". Apply an 8 oz cup of super-phosphate in the hole to promote root growth. Before placing the plant in the ground, remove the pot and check for circling roots, and gently separate with your fingers. These roots have the potential of strangling the plant as it grows. Be careful to not disturb the soil around the potted rose when removing from the pot. When planting roses, whether hybrid teas, floribundas, grandiflora or compact shrub roses, plant 1 l/2 feet apart. 24" apart is all right also. Miniature roses should be planted one foot apart.
The bud union of the rose bush should be planted approximately 1" below the ground level to protect from cold weather. Water the new bush thoroughly, then fill the hole with soil or organic matter. Do not add any other granular fertilizer, in the soil, to the new rose bush until it has produced new blooms, probably late May or early June. The fertilizer could burn the new tender roots.
Save this article as your early rose care
guide. The next article in June will discuss the appropriate time for the second round of
fertilizing during the growing season.
Many people are taken by the love of roses. It is an enjoyable hobby. And roses are meant
to be shared.
Rose Books from Amazon.com
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