Rose Tips by Al Karsten
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August Rose Tips
It is time to fertilize the roses for the third and final time this growing season. Roses should be fertilized during August but NO LATER than August 15th due to the beginning of their dormancy period in late August.
Dig a shallow circle around each rose bush and apply an 8 oz. cup of 13-13-13 fertilizer. Water in thoroughly. When you have completed your fertilizing and watering, go back and water again--one gallon per bush. Cover the shallow trench, or circle, with your hands.
Fertilize miniature roses no more than a 4 oz. cup of 13-13-13. Always water thoroughly. They do not require as much fertilizer--and you do not want to burn the roots.
Roses do require a lot of water and fertilizer during the season. The abundance of blooms is the reward! When you apply 13-13-13 fertilizer you get a rapid availability of nutrients to the roots of your roses.
If your roses show foliage as pale green color, weak spindly stems, small flowers starting at the bottom of the plant, the rose bush may be deficient in nitrogen. Nitrogen is necessary for plant cell growth and plant respiration (breathing).
If your rose bush looked healthy last week and you suddenly noticed a cane with wilted leaves in all probability it is a canker disease. If the cane is dark in color, as opposed to green, you should cut the canker cane out from the rose bush. Go down to the part of the cane where it is green to make the cut. In some cases this could be all the way to the soil area. Canker is usually caused by damage to a rose cane.
August is usually hot and dry. If we do not get sufficient moisture you should water the roses one inch per week, per bush. Two inches is better. Continue to water roses until the middle of October if we are lacking rainfall.
At this time of the year perhaps you have yellow leaves on your rose bushes? This could be from humid conditions in our area or if yellow leaves are at the bottom of the bush, it may be older leaves. If the yellow leaves have black spot you need to spray weekly with a fungicide. Pick all yellow leaves on the rose bushes and any in the soil around the bush. With good watering practice new leaves will soon appear.
Do not continue your regular weekly spray program if the temperature is over 85 degrees. From 85 to 90 degrees cut your spray application in half. If directions on the container indicate l tablespoon per gallon, use only 1/2 tablespoon. When the expected daytime high temperature is over 90 degrees discontinue spraying until the temperatures are below 85 degrees. Remember to water roses prior to spraying if moisture is lacking. The roots need the water so that the chemicals do not burn the leaves from your spray program.
Even though you should not apply granular fertilizer after August 15th, you may add a soluble fertilizer such as Miracle-Gro, K-Gro (K-Mart) or Rapid-Gro. One tablespoon per gallon. This can be added with your fungicide and insecticide spray. Do not save extra spray. Apply to plants where you have noticed mildew or a lot of insect damage. The other side of the coin - you will not have butterflies in your garden because of the chemicals. With experience, you will be able to have enough spray and not have any leftover - or only a small amount to throw away on your lawn. Clean out your sprayer after every use.
Check your roses in August for spider mites on the lower leaves of the rose bushes. The leaves will be a lighter color as the mites suck the juices right out. With your garden hose spray under the leaves from the bottom to half way up the rose bush. Spider mites are usually not at the top of the bush. Spray again in three days and again in three days. In the 9 days you should have disrupted their breeding cycle. Check in a week or two to see if mites have returned. If they have, repeat the above procedure. Generally by early September spider mites have disappeared unless we have very warm days.
Warm days in late August and September, with cool nights, can encourage mildew. When the weather permits you to spray weekly continue your fungicide and insecticide applications, and soluble fertilizer. You should be able to avoid the blackspot and mildew problems.
Continue to remove faded blooms. Faded blooms should be cut l/4 inch above the highest fifth petal leaf. A new "eye" will be forming at the axil of the fifth leaf which produces the new rose cane. Discontinue dead heading (cutting off) faded blooms by the second week in September. This is another process of hardening off the rose bush for winter. It is all right to cut roses to bring into your home or to share with others. You need to leave some of the blooms on the rose bush. When the petals fall from the bloom, it is then a rose hip which should remain on the bush. It is OK to cut a few hips for decoration.
During the hot days of August, mulching the rose bed is very helpful. Try a 2 to 3 inch layer of compost, DRY grass clippings (fresh or green clippings remove nitrogen from the soil), or dry cow manure. Adding dry mulch discourages weeds and conserves water in the soil.
For your information: A pesticide is any chemical which is used to control pests. The pests may be plant disease, fungi, insects, or weeds. Insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, and miticides are all types of pesticides. Some must touch the pest to be deadly, while others must be ingested to be effective. CAUTION SHOULD ALWAYS BE USED WHEN HANDLING PESTICIDES. Read the label. Pesticides come in powder or liquid form.
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