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November 12, 2003 |
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Not Drippy Enough...
Although Monday and Tuesday were drippy days, they were not
nearly drippy enough to keep me from having to water.
I was a guest on
"The Gard'n Wise Guys" radio show on
Sunday and one of the topics discussed was watering.
Should I still be watering and how much? Since we are still
battling a drought, watering now could not be more important. We
have had little rain to speak of for some time so until we
receive that much needed precipitation
you are going to have to keep pulling out the hoses. Don't forget
the gardener's rule of thumb - an inch of water is needed weekly
to keep plants healthy and growing. I'm
the first to admit that it is difficult to remember that
rule this time of the year - especially
when the temperatures are so chilly.
If you
haven't already planted your spring bulbs there is still plenty
of time. Kevin and I just purchased our bulbs and plan on
planting them this weekend. We will plant anywhere from 300-600
bulbs. How exciting it will be next March when the garden will
come to life with all of that color - it
gives me goose bumps just thinking about it! There is
still plenty of time left for planting. You
can continue to plant until the ground freezes.
Who knows, maybe that won't happen this winter.
~
Shelly
Help For The Not So Hardy...
Now that we've
got that wicked first frost behind us it's time to do something
with those non-hardy bulbs we planted last spring. Here's what
to do:
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Dahlias
Cut the tops of dahlia plants back to about 3 inches
above the soil. Then dig the roots
out of the ground, being careful not to break the neck.
Place the root clumps upside down
and allow them to dry for several hours before storing.
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Gladiolus
Cut gladiolus tops back close to the base, leaving no more than
an inch or so of the stem. Remove the excess soil from the
corms. Spread the corms out in a well-ventilated place, such
as a garage, for about three weeks. Once dried thoroughly,
remove the old corms, stems and husks and discard them. The
healthy new corms are then ready for storing.
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Canna
Cut back canna stems to about 6 inches. Dig the rhizomes out
of the ground and dry for a few hours in the sun. Then bring
them in for storage.
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Tuberous Begonias
Dig tuberous begonias, tops and all, after frost blackens the
tops. Put them in a frost-free place for a week or 2 for
drying. Once dry, cut the tops back to about 3 inches from the
tuber. Let tubers dry for about 2 more weeks. Then break off
the stem stubs and shake the excess soil from the tubers.
Dahlias, cannas, and begonias can be stored surrounded by
vermiculite or peat moss in a shallow box. Gladioli should be
stored in a paper bag.
Source
Keep Your
Cutters Clean...
Your shears and loppers are probably getting a good workout
as you tidy up the garden and landscape. Keep them in good
working order by wiping them with a rag dipped in paint thinner
to remove sticky resins. Regular sharpening and a periodic
thorough oiling will help the better tools last forever.
Mice +
Mulch = Mischief...
Mice and other rodents like to creep around and underneath
mulched areas. Who can blame them? It's warm there! But they
can be mischievous little creatures too. To prevent them from
gnawing on your tree trunks and shrubs keep mulch pulled back
several inches from the bases of your trees and shrubs.
Slug Solution...
If slugs were a problem this year, clean up vegetable gardens
and perennial borders very thoroughly. Dry autumn weather sends
these molluscs searching for damp hiding places. If you deprive
them of moist areas that they can use to stay alive, you can
significantly decrease the potential for damage next year.
Source
Moving
Mums...
Once again this fall I've bought a
lot of potted mums. There's no better way to
get that late fall color in the garden! Many gardeners
(myself included) choose to transplant their potted mums into the
garden. Well, now is the time to do it.
For best results follow these important tips:
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Transplant mums into well-drained soil. Winter injury is most
common when mums are planted in poorly-drained soils.
- Before
planting, make sure there is an adequate amount of organic
matter incorporated into the area. Potted mums are often grown
in a mix that is very high in organic matter. If these are
planted in very heavy clay soil without first amending it, the
difference between the two soil situations often prevents good
root establishment and increases the chance of winter kill.
- After
leaves have turned brown, cut back the tops and apply six
inches of loose mulch. The purpose of this mulch is to provide
wind protection and keep the soil shaded and frozen so that
frost heaving is minimized. Protective mulch may be removed or
pulled away from the crown by early to mid-April after danger
of severe cold is past.
Source
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Winter Rose
Protection...
Get your roses ready for winter by
cutting them back to about 36 inches. Mound mulching
material (compost, straw, leaves, etc...) at least 12 inches deep
around the remaining stems to provide protection from freezing
and soil heaving. Next spring you'll cut back any of the wood
that didn't survive the winter and your roses will be ready for
another great growing season.
Winter Wisdom...
It's that time of year when the What's
Hot on the Hotline column completes its magical metamorphosis
into Winter Wisdom. You'll find a look back at a
successful summer and a look forward to winter in this
week's
Winter
Wisdom...
Grass Is Greener...
Don't put away those garden hoses!
There's lots of watering to be done now and possibly through the
winter. If you haven't watered your cool season (fescue,
bluegrass) lawn lately, chances are pretty good that it's looking
a little brown. Make no mistake, it should be green
(photo).
You
can make it green and keep it green by watering now and anytime
the temperatures are above freezing.
Finally... "With
a few flowers in my garden, half a dozen pictures and some books,
I live without envy." ~
Lope de Vega, Spanish Playwright,
1562-1635 |