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November 12, 2003

Not Drippy Enough...
Although Monday and Tuesday were drippy days, they were not nearly drippy enough to keep me from having to water.  I was a guest on "The Gard'n Wise Guys" radio show on Sunday and one of the topics discussed was watering. Should I still be watering and how much? Since we are still battling a drought, watering now could not be more important. We have had little rain to speak of for some time so until we receive that much needed precipitation you are going to have to keep pulling out the hoses. Don't forget the gardener's rule of thumb - an inch of water is needed weekly to keep plants healthy and growing. I'm the first to admit that it is difficult to remember that rule this time of the year - especially when the temperatures are so chilly.

If you haven't already planted your spring bulbs there is still plenty of time. Kevin and I just purchased our bulbs and plan on planting them this weekend. We will plant anywhere from 300-600 bulbs. How exciting it will be next March when the garden will come to life with all of that color - it gives me goose bumps just thinking about it! There is still plenty of time left for planting. You can continue to plant until the ground freezes. Who knows, maybe that won't happen this winter.

~ Shelly  

Help For The Not So Hardy...
Now that we've got that wicked first frost behind us it's time to do something with those non-hardy bulbs we planted last spring.  Here's what to do:

  • Dahlias
    Cut
    the tops of dahlia plants back to about 3 inches above the soil.  Then dig the roots out of the ground, being careful not to break the neck.  Place the root clumps upside down and allow them to dry for several hours before storing.
  • Gladiolus
    Cut gladiolus tops back close to the base, leaving no more than an inch or so of the stem.  Remove the excess soil from the corms.  Spread the corms out in a well-ventilated place, such as a garage, for about three weeks.  Once dried thoroughly, remove the old corms, stems and husks and discard them.  The healthy new corms are then ready for storing.
  • Canna
    Cut back canna stems to about 6 inches.  Dig the rhizomes out of the ground and dry for a few hours in the sun.  Then bring them in for storage.
  • Tuberous Begonias
    Dig tuberous begonias, tops and all, after frost blackens the tops.  Put them in a frost-free place for a week or 2 for drying.  Once dry, cut the tops back to about 3 inches from the tuber.  Let tubers dry for about 2 more weeks.  Then break off the stem stubs and shake the excess soil from the tubers.

Dahlias, cannas, and begonias can be stored surrounded by vermiculite or peat moss in a shallow box.  Gladioli should be stored in a paper bag.

Source

Keep Your Cutters Clean...
Your shears and loppers are probably getting a good workout as you tidy up the garden and landscape.  Keep them in good working order by wiping them with a rag dipped in paint thinner to remove sticky resins. Regular sharpening and a periodic thorough oiling will help the better tools last forever.

Mice + Mulch = Mischief...
Mice and other rodents like to creep around and underneath mulched areas. Who can blame them?  It's warm there!  But they can be mischievous little creatures too.  To prevent them from gnawing on your tree trunks and shrubs keep mulch pulled back several inches from the bases of your trees and shrubs.

 


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Slug Solution...
If slugs were a problem this year, clean up vegetable gardens and perennial borders very thoroughly. Dry autumn weather sends these molluscs searching for damp hiding places. If you deprive them of moist areas that they can use to stay alive, you can significantly decrease the potential for damage next year.

Source

Moving Mums...
Once again this fall I've bought a lot of potted mums.  There's no better way to get that late fall color in the garden!   Many gardeners (myself included) choose to transplant their potted mums into the garden.  Well, now is the time to do it.  For best results follow these important tips:

  • Transplant mums into well-drained soil.  Winter injury is most common when mums are planted in poorly-drained soils. 
  • Before planting, make sure there is an adequate amount of organic matter incorporated into the area.  Potted mums are often grown in a mix that is very high in organic matter. If these are planted in very heavy clay soil without first amending it, the difference between the two soil situations often prevents good root establishment and increases the chance of winter kill.  
  • After leaves have turned brown, cut back the tops and apply six inches of loose mulch.  The purpose of this mulch is to provide wind protection and keep the soil shaded and frozen so that frost heaving is minimized.  Protective mulch may be removed or pulled away from the crown by early to mid-April after danger of severe cold is past.  

Source

 


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Winter Rose Protection...
Get your roses ready for winter by cutting them back to about 36 inches.  Mound mulching material (compost, straw, leaves, etc...) at least 12 inches deep around the remaining stems to provide protection from freezing and soil heaving. Next spring you'll cut back any of the wood that didn't survive the winter and your roses will be ready for another great growing season. 

Winter Wisdom...
It's that time of year when the What's Hot on the Hotline column completes its magical metamorphosis into Winter Wisdom.  You'll find a look back at a successful summer and a look forward to winter in this week's Winter Wisdom...

Grass Is Greener...
Don't put away those garden hoses!  There's lots of watering to be done now and possibly through the winter.  If you haven't watered your cool season (fescue, bluegrass) lawn lately, chances are pretty good that it's looking a little brown.  Make no mistake, it should be green
(photo). You can make it green and keep it green by watering now and anytime the temperatures are above freezing.

Finally...
"With a few flowers in my garden, half a dozen pictures and some books, I live without envy."

~ Lope de Vega, Spanish Playwright, 1562-1635

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