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March 31, 2004

Labor of Love...
I was working in a friend's garden on Monday, raking, weeding and tending to other general clean-up before the rain chased me inside. How is it that I could be so happy sitting in the garden pulling weeds and removing dead foliage, meticulously picking leaves from shrubs and any other place they had chosen to over winter? It finally dawned on me. I am happiest when I am cleaning and manicuring gardens. Not just mine but anyone's. Sounds a bit crazy doesn't it? I agree but that is where I find the most joy and satisfaction. Now don't get me wrong, I love to plant, but having a clean garden - free of weeds, leaves or anything else that might distract from it's beauty seems to be high on my priority list. I guess we all have our own strengths and it is nice to know that I have finally found mine.

Not only do spring showers bring beautiful flowers but how about a bunch of worms? Our sons Noah and Jake were challenged by their father to see how many they could collect (photos). A dime for each worm picked up ever so delicately to be later placed in its new home - the Marsh garden. How cute!

I think we are going to get an opportunity to enjoy a real spring this year. The extended forecast shows temperatures hovering in the lower 60's for the next 10 days. Perfect spring weather. Get out and enjoy it

~ Shelly  

Scat Cat...
So, your neighbor's cat has decided that your garden is its designated litter box?  Here are some tips that might actually work to keep that feline from soiling your garden:

  • Try planting rue.  This attractive blue-green herb has a scent that most cats find disagreeable.
  • Modify the cat's behavior.  Spray water at the cat when it comes into the garden.  If the cat associates an unpleasant shower with your garden it will likely find another place to hang out.
  • Plant a garden just for the cat.  By creating a small space that the cat enjoys you may be able to keep it away from the rest of your plantings.  Try catnip, catmint, cat thyme, and valerian .

Keep 'Em Covered...
Gardeners anxious to get their yard and garden chores done in spring may be tempted to remove the mulch from their strawberry beds in March or early April.  A portion of the strawberry crop may be lost, however, if the mulch is removed too early in the spring.  Removal of the mulch plus several days of warm weather may encourage the plants to bloom before the danger of frost or freezing temperatures is past.  Temperatures of 32°F or lower may severely damage or destroy open flowers.  Since the first flowers produce the largest berries, a late spring frost can drastically reduce yields. 

To reduce the chances of frost or freeze damage leave the mulch on until the plants show signs of growth.  Periodically examine the plants under the mulch during periods of warm weather in the spring.  Remove the mulch from the strawberry plants when about 25% of the plants are showing new growth (it will be white or yellow in color).  Rake the mulch to the center aisles between rows.  If there is a threat of a frost later in the season during bloom, the mulch can be lightly raked back over the plants.

The Great Divide...
Dividing perennials is important for the garden and the soul.  The garden benefits because many perennials become overcrowded and need to be thinned out once in a while.  The gardener's soul benefits because it provides an opportunity to share our garden treasures with other gardeners who will go on to expand their beauty.  

Don't divide the wrong plants!  Before you start take a look at our handy guide When to Divide Perennials in our Features section.

 


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Dig This...
Depending on which "how to" guide you're reading you might see different references to what many simply refer to as digging.  While some people use the terms interchangeably digging, shoveling, and spading are actually 3 different actions.  Digging turns up, loosens or removes soil.  Shoveling moves loose material from one place to another.  Spading mixes the material leaving it in the same location.  For example we dig a hole, we spade (work) compost into the soil, and we shovel the soil mix back into the planting hole.  They're not just different actions either.  Digging, shoveling, and spading require different tools to get the job done right.

  • For digging the best tool to use is a round-point shovel.  The point at the tip of the blade focuses the digger's weight on a very small area, increasing the pounds per square inch on the shovel and allowing the cutting surface to move through the soil easily.  This becomes a disadvantage if the blade hits a tough root or rock.
  • For shoveling the tools of choice are a square-point, flat-backed shovel or the round-point shovel.  On a flat surface the square-point, flat-backed shovel works more efficiently.  For shoveling out planting holes, the round-point works best because its smaller head can fit into tight spaces.
  • For spading, a digging fork or a round point shovel work well.

Source

Proper Pruning...
Part of your spring clean-up may include some tree pruning.  Take your time and do it right.  In particular don't leave stubs behind when pruning.  Stubs usually die and become entry points for decay fungus.  Instead cut just outside the branch collar, the slightly thickened area at the base of the branch.  As an extra precaution remember that pruning should never be done in damp or wet weather when the fungal spores and bacteria that infect plants through fresh wounds spread easily.

 


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What's Hot On The Hotline...
At Family Tree's Open House last week it was interesting that an evident concern of many visitors as well as to Hotline callers this week was “Is it too late to plant grass seed?” If you are overseeding an existing cool season grass lawn or dealing with bare spots, the right answer is a conditional “no”.  What are the conditions attached to this "no"?  Find out in this week's What's Hot On the Hotline...

Zoysia Zzz's...
If you have a zoysia lawn it is still dormant and you should not be applying any fertilizer to it.  Any fertilizer added now will just feed the weeds and they're overfed as it is.  Be patient.  You should be able to fertilize your zoysia lawn in about six weeks.

Finally...
"I love being asked to identify plants, and I don't know which gives me more pleasure: to know what they are or not to know what they are."

~ Elizabeth Lawrence, Through the Garden Gates, 1990

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