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July 28, 2004

Where Are We?
"
Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore". A famous line from a famous movie. Talking with friends and gardeners about the unusual weather we are experiencing, I have heard many comments like that one more than once this week. Not many complaints. After all, who could possibly complain about weather in the mid to upper 80's, low humidity and rain when it is needed. It may not be a typical Kansas summer but I am loving it and so is my garden.

I continuously find things to do in the garden. Weeding (a never-ending job) cutting back, dead-heading both annuals and perennials. Piddling in the garden is something that I love to do. Piddling, also known to some as puttering, is basically hanging out in the garden just to make sure you are not missing out on a thing. A new bloom, a hummingbird, butterflies (photos) and bees buzzing happily from one flower to another. Just being in the garden-enjoying its every aspect.

Don't forget about growing the tastiest tomato. The 2nd Annual Savvygardener.com Tastiest Tomato Contest is Sunday August 15 @ 10:00 AM at Family Tree Nursery in Overland Park. Tell your family and friends about the contest. First, second and third prizes will be given away. A fun event you won't want to miss!

~ Shelly  

The Cutting Gardener...
When gardens are blooming the way they have been lately it's a shame not to spread the beauty around.  How?  By bringing some of it inside!  I've been busy cutting some of my prettiest flowers to bring inside to enjoy.  Before you do the same, there are some procedures to follow if you really want to do it right:

  • Start when flower stems are full of water - either early morning (6 to 8 AM) or late evening (7 to 9 PM).
  • Carry a clean bucket filled with very warm (100 to 120º F) water.
  • Always use sharp, very clean scissors or pruners when cutting. 
  • Immediately place any cut flowers in the bucket of warm water.
  • When you bring the flowers in, re-cut each flower under water.  This pulls water into the stems more quickly.  Flowers that are not re-cut immediately after picking can lose up to 60% of their vase life.
  • Place the bucket of re-cut flowers in a cool area, such as the basement and allow them to hydrate or harden for at least one hour (although overnight is best).
  • Arrange, display, enjoy!

Source

You Say Cicada, I Say...
If you're brave enough to venture out in the evening heat these days your ears will no doubt be overwhelmed by the din of cicadas.  Cicadas leave lots of people puzzled so we dug up some dirt on these noisy critters:

  • The dog-day cicada is what we hear this year and virtually every year.  
  • It is related to the 17-year cicada (last seen in K.C. in 1998) and is usually found on oaks, maples, and other mature, well-established trees. 
  • Dog-day cicadas appear during the long, summer days of July and August hence their nick-name. 
  • They have two to five-year life cycles but their broods overlap and therefore seemingly appear every summer. 
  • Dog-day cicadas are larger than 17-year cicadas and have brown-black bodies with whitish highlights and green wing margins. 
  • Dog-day cicadas do not ordinarily cause much damage though they (and the shells they leave behind) are a bit unattractive.
  • The 17-year cicada will not be back in our area until 2015 but dog-day cicadas are likely every summer.

Bulbs That Bloom In Autumn...
The savviest of Savvygardeners know that there are a number of autumn-blooming bulbs that really perk up the fall garden and landscape.  Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) also known as meadow saffron, mysteria, or naked boys produces pink to lavender crocus-like flowers in the fall and there is no foliage present when the plants are in bloom.  Dark green leaves will emerge in the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the ground.  After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall again.

Colchicums should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery in August or September or they will start to bloom in their packaging.  Plant the corms in clumps, 2-3 inches deep in well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade.  Pretty!

 


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Time To Divide Iris...
There's some very rewarding summer work to be done right now. It's time to divide your irises. After 3 to 5 years of growth irises will become crowded and should be divided so they don't starve each other for soil nutrients. Here's a few simple steps to get the job done:

  1. Cut the leaves back to one-third their length.
  2. Dig the rhizome clump with a fork or spade and wash the soil off with a hose.
  3. Cut the rhizomes apart so that each section has at least one healthy fan of leaves and firm, white roots.
  4. Discard soft rhizomes and any older leafless rhizomes toward the center of the clump.
  5. Plant the divisions 12 - 18 inches apart in shallow holes in a sunny location.
  6. Water immediately and again in ten days if rain is scarce.

Following these steps now allows adequate time for the divisions to get established before winter and also reduces the chance of frost heaving in late winter.

Thump Goes The Melon...
Watermelon growers probably have some pretty big fruit by now.  You don't want to harvest your melons too early!  Just check for these tell-tale indicators of ripeness: 

  • The underside ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow.
  • The tendril closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels.
  • The rind loses its gloss and appears dull.
  • The melon produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.

 


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What's Hot On The Hotline...
In our last article, we mentioned that insects seem to be with us this year in great abundance. We should keep in mind that there are some insects and spiders, common to our area, that are beneficial lawn and garden visitors.  Find out more about these insect friends in this week's What's Hot On the Hotline...

Orange And Dusty? Probably Rusty...
have you discovered an orange dust clinging to your shoes afetr walking through the lawn? You're not alone.  Our cool, damp spring and summer have accelerated the onset of Rust Disease of turfgrass.  Rust diseases attack all turfgrasses, but are most often found on susceptible Bluegrass, tall fescue ryegrass and Zoysia in late August and early September. Unlike some other turf fungi, this particular fungus (Puccinia), can do serious damage resulting in thinning and winterkill.  The best protection is healthy turf management, including proper levels of fertilizer, watering, and mowing at the recommended height (normally 3 inches at this time of the year). Avoid night watering.

An application of fungicide may be helpful before the turfgrass enters winter dormancy. The most commonly suggested fungicides for rust control are products such as chlorothalonil (Daconil) and triadimefon ( Bayleton). As always, apply following label directions.

Finally...
"The act of putting into your mouth what the earth has grown is perhaps your most direct interaction with the earth."

~ Frances Moore Lappe, Author

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