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July 28, 2004 |
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Where Are We?
"Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore".
A famous line from a famous movie. Talking
with friends and gardeners about the unusual weather we are
experiencing, I have heard many
comments like that one more than once this week. Not many
complaints. After all, who could
possibly complain about weather in the mid to upper 80's, low
humidity and rain when it is needed. It may not be a typical
Kansas summer but I am loving it and so is my garden.
I
continuously find things to do in the garden. Weeding (a never-ending
job) cutting back, dead-heading both annuals and perennials.
Piddling in the garden is something that I love to do. Piddling,
also known to some as puttering, is
basically hanging out in the garden just to make sure you are not
missing out on a thing. A new bloom, a hummingbird, butterflies
(photos)
and bees buzzing happily from one flower to another. Just being
in the garden-enjoying its every aspect.
Don't
forget about growing the tastiest tomato. The
2nd Annual Savvygardener.com Tastiest Tomato Contest
is Sunday August 15 @ 10:00 AM at Family Tree Nursery in Overland
Park. Tell your family and friends about the contest. First,
second and third prizes will be given away. A fun event you won't
want to miss!
~
Shelly
The Cutting Gardener...
When gardens are blooming the way they
have been lately it's a shame not to spread the beauty around.
How? By bringing some of it inside! I've
been busy cutting some of my
prettiest flowers to bring inside to
enjoy. Before you do the same, there are some procedures to
follow if you really want to do it right:
- Start when flower
stems are full of water - either early morning (6 to 8 AM) or
late evening (7 to 9 PM).
- Carry a clean
bucket filled with very warm (100 to 120º F) water.
- Always use sharp,
very clean scissors or pruners when cutting.
- Immediately place
any cut flowers in the bucket of warm water.
- When you bring
the flowers in, re-cut each flower under water. This pulls
water into the stems more quickly. Flowers that are not re-cut
immediately after picking can lose up to 60% of their
vase life.
- Place the bucket
of re-cut flowers in a cool area, such as the basement and
allow them to hydrate or harden for at least one hour (although
overnight is best).
- Arrange, display,
enjoy!
Source
You Say Cicada, I Say...
If you're brave enough to venture out in the evening heat
these days your ears will no doubt be overwhelmed by the din of
cicadas. Cicadas leave lots of people puzzled so we dug up some
dirt on these noisy critters:
- The
dog-day cicada is what we hear this year and virtually
every year.
- It is
related to the 17-year cicada (last seen in K.C. in 1998) and
is usually found on oaks, maples, and other mature,
well-established trees.
-
Dog-day cicadas appear during the long, summer days of July
and August hence their nick-name.
- They
have two to five-year life cycles but their broods overlap and
therefore seemingly appear every summer.
-
Dog-day cicadas are larger than 17-year cicadas and have
brown-black bodies with whitish highlights and green wing
margins.
-
Dog-day cicadas do not ordinarily cause much damage though
they (and the
shells they leave behind) are a bit
unattractive.
- The
17-year cicada will not be back in our area until 2015 but
dog-day cicadas are likely every summer.
Bulbs That Bloom In Autumn...
The savviest of Savvygardeners know that there are a number
of autumn-blooming bulbs that really perk up the fall garden and
landscape. Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) also known as
meadow saffron, mysteria, or naked boys produces pink to lavender
crocus-like flowers in the fall and there is no foliage present
when the plants are in bloom. Dark green leaves will emerge in
the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the
ground. After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall
again.
Colchicums
should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery in
August or September or they will start to bloom in their
packaging. Plant the corms in clumps, 2-3 inches deep in
well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. Pretty!
Time To Divide Iris...
There's some very rewarding summer work to be done right now.
It's time to divide your irises. After 3 to 5 years of growth
irises will become crowded and should be divided so they don't
starve each other for soil nutrients. Here's a few simple steps
to get the job done:
- Cut the leaves
back to one-third their length.
- Dig the rhizome
clump with a fork or spade and wash the soil off with a hose.
- Cut the rhizomes
apart so that each section has at least one healthy fan of
leaves and firm, white roots.
- Discard soft
rhizomes and any older leafless rhizomes toward the center of
the clump.
- Plant the
divisions 12 - 18 inches apart in shallow holes in a sunny
location.
- Water immediately
and again in ten days if rain is scarce.
Following
these steps now allows adequate time for the divisions to get
established before winter and also reduces the chance of frost
heaving in late winter.
Thump
Goes The Melon...
Watermelon growers probably have some pretty big fruit by
now. You don't want to harvest your melons too early! Just
check for these tell-tale indicators of ripeness:
- The underside
ground spot turns from whitish to creamy yellow.
- The tendril
closest to the melon turns brown and shrivels.
- The rind loses
its gloss and appears dull.
- The melon
produces a dull thud rather than a ringing sound when thumped.
Tell Your Friends About
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You
Could Win A $50 Gift Certificate
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What's Hot On The Hotline...
In our last article, we mentioned that
insects seem to be with us this year in great abundance. We
should keep in mind that there are some insects and
spiders, common to our area, that are beneficial lawn and garden
visitors. Find out more about these insect friends in this
week's
What's Hot On the Hotline...
Orange And Dusty? Probably Rusty...
have you discovered an orange dust
clinging to your shoes
afetr walking through the lawn?
You're not alone. Our cool, damp spring
and summer have accelerated the onset of Rust Disease of
turfgrass. Rust diseases attack all turfgrasses, but
are most often found on susceptible Bluegrass, tall fescue
ryegrass and Zoysia in late August and early September. Unlike
some other turf fungi, this particular fungus (Puccinia), can do
serious damage resulting in thinning and winterkill.
The best protection is healthy turf management,
including proper levels of
fertilizer, watering, and mowing at the
recommended height (normally 3 inches at
this time of the year).
Avoid night watering.
An application of fungicide may be
helpful before the turfgrass enters winter dormancy. The most
commonly suggested fungicides for rust control are products such
as chlorothalonil (Daconil) and triadimefon ( Bayleton). As
always, apply following label directions.
Finally... "The act of putting
into your mouth what the earth has grown is perhaps your most
direct interaction with the earth." ~
Frances Moore Lappe, Author |