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October 20, 2004

Gray Days...
Enough of this weather! These chilly, dreary, drippy, days are taking a toll on my sense of well being. My motivational level tends to suffer when the weather turns cool and gray. I need the sun. There is something so magical about it. Perhaps it is the way it makes everything look or the way it makes me feel. Sunshine - so powerful, warm and invigorating.

I was hoping to start my bulb planting this week but have not ventured out into the gardens. As I sit inside looking out into the gardens the leaves are turning their magnificent colors and starting to fall. There is a light breeze today and day-by-day more leaves are falling to the ground - a signal that winter is not far away. That first hard frost has alluded us thus far. My pansies and mums still look great and I am thrilled by the color they lend to the landscape this time of year. Sunshine and color, "feel good" words on a gloomy sort of day.

~ Shelly  

Breakfast In Bed...
If your spring-flowering bulb beds have been fertilized in the past there is often plenty of phosphorus and potassium present in the soil already.  However, it is best to take a soil test to be sure.  If the soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer (such as 10- 10-10, 9-9-6, etc.) at the rate of 2½ pounds per 100 square feet. This would equal 1 rounded teaspoon per square foot.  If phosphorus and potassium are not needed, blood meal makes an excellent fertilizer.  It should be applied at the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square foot.  Turf fertilizers such as a 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 can also be used but the rate would have to be cut to 1 pound per 100 square feet.

Source

Will Potted Plants Survive?
We've had several readers ask whether potted plants can survive outdoors through the winter. This depends on so many factors. The size of the planters and the thickness of the planter material are important. If the pots are big enough to keep the soil from freezing then some cold-hardy plants will survive. The other factors include:

  • The particular winter. Mild winters will favor plants in large pots.
  • Microclimate - Sunny locations will allow the soil (and concrete) to heat up and keep the soil from freezing.

As a rule in the Kansas City area, choose plants that have a cold hardiness of at least Zone 3. Also make sure there is adequate moisture available through the winter.

What's Up Doc?
During the winter months, rabbits often gnaw on the bark of many woody plants.  Heavy browsing can result in the complete girdling of small trees and small branches clipped off at snow level.  Apple, pear, crabapple, and serviceberry are frequent targets of these furry critters.  Smaller trees with smooth, thin bark tend to be the most vulnerable.  Other frequently damaged plants include the winged euonymus or burning bush, Japanese barberry, dogwood, roses, and raspberries.

The best way to prevent rabbit damage to young trees is to place a cylinder of hardware cloth (¼ inch mesh wire fencing) around the tree trunk.  The hardware cloth cylinder should stand about 1 to 2 inches from the tree trunk and 20 inches above the ground.  The bottom 2 to 3 inches should be buried beneath the soil.

Source

 


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Salvaging the Season...
As the temperatures start a free fall, many Savvygardeners find themselves with tomato plants still loaded with green or ripening fruit. The goal of course is to keep those tomatoes for as long as possible.
Here's some help.

As tomatoes cannot be stored at temperatures below 50° F. You need to find a location that is above 50° F but as close to 50° as possible. For most, this will probably be the coolest part of your basement. On the afternoon before the first freeze is forecast pick all the fruit on the plant that are full-sized (regardless of color). Discard any with severe cracks, disease spots, bruises, or that are otherwise defective. Divide them into three groups: those that are full-sized and still green, those that are showing some color, and those that are mostly red or nearly red. Plan to use the red group first. Layer the other two groups in a box or carton separated by newspapers so you can remove tomatoes without having to disturb others in the box.

As you need tomatoes, bring some from the "turning color" group to your kitchen counter for a few days to allow them to develop their full ripe color. After this group is used up, begin to use those from the mature green group. Keep your eye (and nose) out for tomatoes that are starting to rot and discard them. The newspaper will absorb juice from rotted tomatoes without damaging those nearby.

Source

Iris Clean-Up...
Iris are known for a couple of very common problems: a fungus disease known as iris leaf spot and an insect named iris borer. Though both cause problems in the spring, now is the time to start control measures. Both the fungus and eggs of the borer overwinter on old, dead leaves. Removing iris leaves and other garden debris from the iris bed this fall reduces populations of these pests. This can significantly reduce problems next spring.

Source

 

Don't Leave Those Leaves...
Those leaves that are falling all over the region are pretty but leaving lots of them on your lawn can mean trouble.  When they are dry they shade your grass from much needed fall sun.  When wet they can smother grass turning it yellow and possibly killing it.  Just keep the leaves raked up a few times per week and you should be fine.  Better yet, mow and bag them in your lawnmower and use the shredded leaves in your garden or compost pile.

Cure For The Common Crabgrass...
As you view your October lawn you may see a horrifying crop of crabgrass. Much of it has already gone to seed and the rest will soon follow. The good news is that crabgrass is an annual. The bad news is that it reseeds freely. All that stands between you and a lawn of pure crabgrass next year is pre-emergent herbicide. Be ready to apply this in April or whenever the weather indicates.

Source

Finally...
"Sunshine is delicious, rain is refreshing, wind braces up, snow is exhilarating; there is no such thing as bad weather just different kinds of good weather."

~ John Ruskin, 1819-1900

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