Digging On
Some New Tools...
When walking the boys to school today I could hardly believe
the amount of leaves that had fallen to the ground
over the last 24 hours. Why the sudden
change? Could it be the trees are finally giving in
to the change of season or was it the light breeze
rustling through their limbs? Either way it not only looked
like fall but felt like fall as well.
We walked with our jackets on, admiring the
leaves, noting the different sizes and colors. I think the
kids were as excited as me knowing that yesterday could have been
our last really hot day and that snow may be in our
not-too-distant future.
We are
expecting some rain this evening into tomorrow - much needed I
might add. Remember if you have just re-seeded your lawn,
make sure you keep leaves off the new grass. It is important for
the tender blades to receive as much sun and air as possible.
Leaving freshly fallen leaves on new turf will
eventually smother and kill it - not
a good thing.
I promised
I would write about another great product I discovered at the
Gard'n-Wise Distributors show and I am
thrilled to tell you about a new line of gardening tools made by
Radius.
There are presently four products which include a trowel, bulb
trowel, weeder and cultivator. What makes these products so great
is the design. They all have a unique
curved grip which matches the curve in the palm of your hand. The
blades are made of a special aluminum/magnesium alloy which weighs
less than conventional die-cast
aluminum. They are sturdy and the color of the handle is neon
green which makes it easier to find even in darker places like
the garage. These products are too cool!
I think you'll agree that great tools are hard to come by. They
can be found at your local
Gard'n Wise dealer.
~
Shelly
Breakfast In Bed...
If your spring-flowering bulb beds
have been fertilized in the past there is often plenty of
phosphorus and potassium present in the soil
already. However, it is best to
take a soil test to be sure. If the
soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer
(such as 10- 10-10, 9-9-6, etc.) at the rate of 2½
pounds per 100 square feet. This would equal 1 rounded teaspoon
per square foot. If phosphorus and
potassium are not needed, blood meal makes an excellent
fertilizer. It should be applied at
the rate of 2 pounds per 100 square feet or 1 teaspoon per square
foot. Turf fertilizers such as a
27-3-3 or 30-3-3 can also be used but the rate would have to be
cut to 1 pound per 100 square feet.
Source
Will
Potted Plants Survive?
We've had several readers ask whether potted plants can survive
outdoors through the winter. This depends on so many factors. The
size of the planters and the thickness of the planter material
are important. If the pots are big enough to keep the soil from
freezing then some cold-hardy plants will survive. The other
factors include:
-
The particular
winter. Mild winters will favor plants in large pots.
-
Microclimate - Sunny
locations will allow the soil (and concrete) to heat up and
keep the soil from freezing.
As a rule in
the Kansas City area, choose plants that have a cold hardiness of
at least Zone 3. Also make sure there is adequate moisture
available through the winter.
What's Up Doc?
During the winter months, rabbits often gnaw on the bark of
many woody plants. Heavy browsing can result in the complete
girdling of small trees and small branches clipped off at snow
level. Apple, pear, crabapple, and serviceberry are frequent
targets of these furry critters. Smaller trees with smooth, thin
bark tend to be the most vulnerable. Other frequently damaged
plants include the winged euonymus or burning bush, Japanese
barberry, dogwood, roses, and raspberries.
The best
way to prevent rabbit damage to young trees is to place a
cylinder of hardware cloth (¼
inch mesh wire fencing) around the tree trunk. The hardware
cloth cylinder should stand about 1 to 2 inches from the tree
trunk and 20 inches above the ground. The bottom 2 to 3 inches
should be buried beneath the soil.
Source
Salvaging the
Season...
As the temperatures start a free fall, many
Savvygardeners find themselves with
tomato plants still loaded with
green or ripening fruit. The goal
of course is to keep those tomatoes for as long as
possible.
Here's some help.
As tomatoes cannot be stored at
temperatures below 50°
F. You need to find a location that is above 50°
F but as close to 50°
as possible. For most, this will
probably be the coolest part of your basement.
On the afternoon before the first freeze
is forecast pick all the fruit on the
plant that are full-sized
(regardless of color). Discard any with
severe cracks, disease spots, bruises, or that
are otherwise defective. Divide them into three groups:
those that are full-sized and still green, those that are showing
some color, and those that are mostly red or nearly red. Plan to
use the red group first. Layer the
other two groups in a box or carton separated by newspapers so
you can remove tomatoes without having to disturb others in the
box.
As you need
tomatoes, bring some from the "turning
color" group to your kitchen counter
for a few days to allow them to develop their full ripe color.
After this group is used up, begin to use
those from the mature green group. Keep your eye
(and nose) out for tomatoes that are starting to rot and
discard them. The newspaper will absorb juice from rotted
tomatoes without damaging those nearby.
Source
Iris Clean-Up...
Iris are known for a couple of very common problems: a fungus
disease known as iris leaf spot and an insect named iris borer.
Though both cause problems in the spring, now is the time to
start control measures. Both the fungus and eggs of the borer
overwinter on old, dead leaves. Removing iris leaves and other
garden debris from the iris bed this fall reduces populations of
these pests. This can significantly reduce problems next spring.
Source
Don't Leave Those Leaves...
Those leaves that are falling all over the region are pretty
but leaving lots of them on your lawn can mean trouble. When
they are dry they shade your grass from much needed fall sun.
When wet they can smother grass turning it yellow and possibly
killing it. Just keep the leaves raked up a few times per week
and you should be fine. Better yet, mow and bag them in your
lawnmower and use the shredded leaves in your garden or compost
pile.
Cure For The
Common Crabgrass...
As you view your October lawn you
may see a horrifying crop of crabgrass. Much of it has already
gone to seed and the rest will soon follow. The good news is that
crabgrass is an annual. The bad news is that it reseeds freely.
All that stands between you and a lawn of pure crabgrass next
year is pre-emergent herbicide. Be
ready to apply this in April or whenever the weather indicates.
Source
Finally... "Spring comes with
flowers, autumn with the moon, summer with the breeze, winter
with snow. When idle concerns don't fill your thoughts, that's
your best season." ~
Wu-Men |