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Mother's Day, Gardener's Day...
Well, the weekend we have been
waiting for has finally arrived! Not only is it time to pay
tribute to your mom but it is officially time to plant. We can
only hope that the colder overnight and morning temperatures are
gone until next fall. I know of several Savvygardener's who have
been scrambling around every night for the past two weeks
covering tender plants and moving pots in and out of the garage.
The lengths we gardener's go to to keep our plants alive.
I have a
list of things I want to plant this weekend so the family will be
spending Mother's Day in the garden. It is fun to get everyone
involved. Morgan, Noah and Jake all like to plant so they will
each get an opportunity to choose a few plants, plant them,
nourish them and watch them grow. I love the fact that we are
teaching our children about gardening and how it is healthy for
the body, soul and mind. Gardening - a gift to be passed down
from one generation to the next. Who could ask for a better gift?
Have a
fabulous Mother's Day!
~
Shelly
A Clip In Time...
The proper time to prune continues to vex many gardeners.
This time of year can get confusing because some shrubs are
flowering, some are done, and others are still getting ready.
Here's the deal:
Shrubs that
flower in the spring are normally pruned immediately after
flowering. Examples of these types of plants include forsythia,
Vanhoutte spirea, flowering quince, lilac and mockorange. Though
pruning during the dormant season does not harm the health of the
plant, the flowering display will be reduced. Shrubs that bloom
on current season's growth or that do not produce ornamental
flowers are best pruned in late winter to early spring. Examples
include Rose-of-Sharon, Bumald Spirea and Japanese Spirea.
There are
three basic methods used in pruning shrubs:
- Thinning
is used to thin out branches from a shrub that is too dense.
It is accomplished by removing most of the inward growing twigs
by either cutting them back to a larger branch or cutting them
back to just above an outward facing bud. On multi- stemmed
shrubs, the oldest canes may be completely removed.
- Heading
back is removing the end of a branch by cutting it back
to a bud and is used for either reducing height or keeping a
shrub compact. Branches are not cut back to a uniform height
as this will result in a "witches-broom" effect.
-
Rejuvenation is the most severe type of pruning and is
normally done during the dormant season. It may be used on
multi-stem shrubs that have become too large with too many old
branches to justify saving the younger canes. All stems are
cut back to 3- to 5-inch stubs. This works well for spirea,
forsythia, pyracantha, ninebark, Russian almond, little leaf
mock orange, shrub roses and flowering quince.
Source
Ants In Your...
Not your pants, but your peonies! If you have peonies you no
doubt have noticed a proliferation of ants scurrying to and fro
across the flower buds. Those ants are the source of many "old
gardener's tales" that have been handed down over the ages.
Here's the deal: The ants are there because of the nectar-like
substance secreted by the peony. Chances are that the ants you
see on your peonies are already living in your garden - the
peonies just draw them out of the soil and make them more
visible. In other words, peonies are not increasing your local
ant population (which creepily number in the hundreds of
thousands or more). Some say that the ants actually help peonies
bloom. Most experts disagree but since they do no harm it's best
to just let them enjoy your peonies as much as you do.
Cutworms Collared...
Cutworms can be a real problem for gardeners setting out
transplants. Protect your newly
transplanted plants with collars. Simply cut strips of
cardboard 2 inches wide by 8 inches long and staple them into a
band. Place this collar around the plant stem and press it about
1 inch into the soil. Simple and very
effective!
We're Cookin' Now...
If you are a cook as well as a Savvygardener one of the great
joys of summer is stepping outside to pick or cut fresh herbs for
preparing a fine meal. In addition to their obvious use in foods
herbs are great additions to most gardens because they are
generally pest resistant, smell great, and many are a joy to
behold.
Conveniently, most herbs have similar growing habits and
requirements. Because their essential oils are much more
concentrated under cool growing conditions you will want to
locate them in a cool but sunny area which receives at least 4 to
6 hours of full sun each day. Areas exposed to the morning sun
are better than those areas with mid-day and afternoon sun.
If you
didn't start any herbs from seed buy some healthy looking plants
from your favorite plant source. However anise, coriander, dill
and fennel aren't too fond of being transplanted. Sow their
seeds directly in the garden.
For a list
of over 30 herbs and specific details about growing them check
out
"Growing Herbs" in our Feature Article section.
Controlling Cankerworms...
Cankerworms, also knows as inchworms are a common pest at
this time of year. There are actually two species of cankerworm:
spring cankerworm, Paleacrita vernata, and fall cankerworm,
Alsophilia pometeria. Though the common names may suggest
otherwise, larvae from both species appear in the spring.
"Spring" and "fall" refer to when the females lay their eggs.
Cankerworms
feed on a wide variety of deciduous trees including oak, ash,
elm, linden and apple. Larvae vary from green to reddish-brown to
black and have one or more white, pale green, or black stripes.
Cankerworms are general defoliators and may skeletonize leaves.
Eventually, only the midribs of leaves remain.
Cankerworms
can be detected by rapping on branches. This disturbs
cankerworms, which betray their presence by dropping down on
silken threads. If necessary, insecticidal treatments may be
applied. Labeled insecticides include permethrin (Bug Stop,
Bonide Eight, Kill-A-Bug II), carbaryl (Sevin) and cyfluthrin
(Bayer Lawn and Garden Multi-Insect Killer).
Source
Take care of all your Mother's Day
shopping needs by visiting
Randy's Lakeview Nursery
& Bulk Supercenter!
Buy one hanging basket and get
the second one
of equal or lesser value at 50% off!
(Offer Valid May 7th & 8th)
New Arrivals!
Wrought iron, Mexican pots,
Annuals
and Perennials.
1820 NE County Park Rd.
Lee's Summit, Missouri 64086
(816) 525-1111
|
Battling Blight...
Early blight and Septoria blight are the two most common
foliar diseases of tomato. Early blight produces brown spots (up
to ½ inch in diameter) on infected leaves. Concentric
rings of darker brown often appear in the leaf spots. Septoria
blight produces small brown spots (approximately 1/8 inch in
diameter) with tan or gray centers and dark edges. Both diseases
cause heavily infected leaves to eventually turn brown, die, and
fall off. Lower leaves are infected first with the diseases
progressing upward during the growing season.
Savvygardeners can reduce blight problems on their tomatoes with
good cultural practices. Here's some tips:
- Start by
selecting stocky, healthy plants at a garden center or
greenhouse.
- Plant
your tomatoes in a different location in the garden each year.
Rotate crops so that tomatoes and other solanaceous
crops (potatoes, peppers, and eggplants) are not grown in the
same area for at least 3 or 4 years. Obviously this may not be
feasible for those with small vegetable gardens - just try to
rotate as much as possible.
- When
planting, space tomatoes approximately 3 feet apart. Adequate
spacing allows good air movement and promotes rapid drying of
plant foliage.
- Grow
tomato plants in wire cages. The foliage of tomatoes grown in
cages will dry more rapidly than those sprawled on the ground.
- Avoid
wetting tomato foliage when watering. Apply water directly to
the ground around plants with drip irrigation, a soaker hose or
slow running hose. If a sprinkler must be used, water in the
morning so the foliage dries quickly.
- If
blight occurs, remove and destroy infected leaves as they
appear. Prompt removal of infected leaves may slow the
progress of the blights. At the end of the gardening season,
remove and destroy all infected tomato plants. Clean up and
dispose of as much tomato plant debris as possible.
Source
The Turfgrass
Two-Step?
Most of us are creatures of habit. When it comes to mowing your
lawn you probably follow the same back and forth pattern every
time you cut the grass. Unfortunately this regular practice will
eventually wear ruts in the lawn where the mower wheels
repeatedly follow the same path. To avoid this problem try a
four-way rotation of cutting patterns. Picture your lawn as a
sheet of paper and try these patterns. Next week - tango
lessons:
-
Horizontal - left-to-right, turn, right-to-left across
the lawn.
-
Vertical - top-to-bottom, turn, bottom-to-top across
the lawn.
-
Diagonal 1 - bottom-left to top-right, turn, top-right
to bottom-left. Work toward corners.
-
Diagonal 2 - bottom-right to top-left, turn, top-left
to bottom-right. Work toward corners.
Finally... "All that I am or
ever hope to be, I owe to my angel Mother." ~
Abraham Lincoln |
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