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July 27, 2005

Welcome Relief...
Wasn't the rain we received yesterday great? I was so pleased once the rain came and stayed for awhile. For a short time I feared that the rain would pass us and we would not get any significant amounts. A nice reprieve. We so desperately needed a good soaking and cooler temperatures. It looks like the heat and humidity will be manageable for the next few days. A good time to get some much needed work done in the gardens.

Once again, we vacationed on the East coast this year and as always I had the opportunity to admire Kevin's mom's garden. If you haven't seen This Week's Photos yet, check out the one with the Japanese beetle on it. What a horrible pest. Those things were everywhere and seem to multiply in front of you - scary! We have our own problems with roses here in the Midwest but I am grateful that the Japanese beetle is not one of them.

For all of you who have been patiently waiting the time is here. The Savvygardener.com Tastiest Tomato contest is Sunday, August 21st, 10:00 AM at Family Tree Nursery in Overland Park. Those of you who have participated in the past know first hand what a great time this is. Those crazy Gard-N-Wise Guys, along with Kevin and I, have a great time tasting all of those yummy tomatoes. Great time, great prizes! Don't miss out - register now!

~ Shelly  

Time To Divide Iris...
There's some very rewarding summer work to be done right now. It's time to divide your irises. After 3 to 5 years of growth irises will become crowded and should be divided so they don't starve each other for soil nutrients. Here's a few simple steps to get the job done:

  1. Cut the leaves back to one-third their length.
  2. Dig the rhizome clump with a fork or spade and wash the soil off with a hose.
  3. Cut the rhizomes apart so that each section has at least one healthy fan of leaves and firm, white roots.
  4. Discard soft rhizomes and any older leafless rhizomes toward the center of the clump.
  5. Plant the divisions 12 - 18 inches apart in shallow holes in a sunny location.
  6. Water immediately and again in ten days if rain is scarce.

Following these steps now allows adequate time for the divisions to get established before winter and also reduces the chance of frost heaving in late winter.

Bulbs That Bloom In Autumn...
The savviest of Savvygardeners know that there are a number of autumn-blooming bulbs that really perk up the fall garden and landscape.  Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) also known as meadow saffron, mysteria, or naked boys produces pink to lavender crocus-like flowers in the fall and there is no foliage present when the plants are in bloom.  Dark green leaves will emerge in the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the ground.  After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall again.

Colchicums should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery in August or September or they will start to bloom in their packaging.  Plant the corms in clumps, 2-3 inches deep in well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade.  Pretty!

Don't Miss This One...
Every year the K-State Horticultural Research Center has a wonderful open house.  It's being held at the Research Center this Saturday (July 30th) from 8AM to 3PMThis is a great opportunity to see hundreds of different cultivars of flowers, fruits and vegetables.  Many are plants that won't reach the market for several years (or at all depending on the results of the tests and trials).  Click here for more information... 

 


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Dodder Is A Bother...
Field dodder (Cuscuta campestris) is a unique parasitic annual plant that also is known as strangleweed or devil's hair. It is composed of golden yellow "threads" that twine over other plants and attach themselves with short, suction-cup-like suckers that arise from the bottom of the dodder stems. These suckers penetrate the stems of host plants to obtain nourishment. Though dodder has leaves, they are so small and scalelike the plant appears leafless. Flowers are small, whitish, appearing from April to October and will produce a seedpod that is two-celled and four-seeded.

Because dodder is an annual, it must reproduce from seed. Plants present now will be killed by the first frost this fall. Seed may sprout in the spring or lie dormant for a number of years. Germination takes place in the soil, but roots die as soon as the plant finds an acceptable host. After attachment, dodder lives completely off the host plant. Unfortunately dodder cannot be destroyed by pulling it off the host plants because remaining stem pieces will continue to grow. Dacthal (DCPA) is a preemergence herbicide that can be used to kill the germinating seed if used at the highest rate for your soil type but is only available to professionals. Glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, etc.) is effective on dodder but is nonselective and will kill whatever it hits, including the host plants.

Source & Photo

Bitter Cucumbers?
A bitter taste in cucumbers is the result of stress that can be caused by a number of factors, including heredity, moisture, temperature, soil characteristics and disease. Most often this occurs during the hot part of the summer or later in the growing season.

Two compounds, cucurbitacins B and C, give rise to the bitter taste. Though often only the stem end is affected, at times the entire fruit is bitter. Also, most of the bitter taste is found in and just under the skin. Bitter fruit is not the result of cucumbers cross-pollinating with squash or melons. These plants cannot cross-pollinate with one another.

Often newer varieties are less likely to become bitter than older ones. Proper cultural care is also often helpful. Make sure your plants have the following:

  • Well-drained soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
  • Plenty of organic matter also helps.
  • Mulch helps conserve moisture and keep roots cool during hot, dry weather.
  • Adequate water especially during the fruiting season.
  • Disease and insect control.

Source

Revitalize Herbs...
If your basil and thyme look like they need an extreme makeover you can revitalize them by cutting them back severely. This will stimulate a clean new flush of growth, free of any insect and disease damage incurred since spring.

Orange And Dusty? Probably Rusty...
Have you discovered an orange dust clinging to your shoes after walking through the lawn? You're not alone.  Our cool, damp spring and summer have accelerated the onset of Rust Disease of turfgrass.  Rust diseases attack all turfgrasses, but are most often found on susceptible Bluegrass, tall fescue ryegrass and Zoysia in late August and early September. Unlike some other turf fungi, this particular fungus (Puccinia), can do serious damage resulting in thinning and winterkill.  The best protection is healthy turf management, including proper levels of fertilizer, watering, and mowing at the recommended height (normally 3 inches at this time of the year). Avoid night watering.

An application of fungicide may be helpful before the turfgrass enters winter dormancy. The most commonly suggested fungicides for rust control are products such as chlorothalonil (Daconil) and triadimefon ( Bayleton). As always, apply following label directions.

Finally...
"The heritage of the past is the seed that brings forth the harvest of the future."

~ "Heritage" Inscription, National Archives

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