Welcome Relief...
Wasn't the rain we received yesterday great? I was so pleased
once the rain came and stayed for awhile. For a short time I
feared that the rain would pass us and we would not get any
significant amounts. A nice reprieve. We so desperately needed a
good soaking and cooler temperatures. It looks like the heat and
humidity will be manageable for the
next few days. A good time to get some much needed work done in
the gardens.
Once
again, we vacationed on the East coast
this year and as always I had the opportunity to admire Kevin's
mom's garden. If you haven't seen
This
Week's Photos yet, check out the one with the Japanese beetle
on it. What a horrible pest. Those
things were everywhere and seem to multiply in front of you -
scary! We have our own problems with roses here in the Midwest
but I am grateful that the Japanese beetle is not one of them.
For all of
you who have been patiently waiting the time is here. The
Savvygardener.com Tastiest Tomato contest is Sunday, August 21st,
10:00 AM at
Family Tree Nursery in Overland Park. Those
of you who have participated in the past know first hand what a
great time this is. Those crazy Gard-N-Wise Guys,
along with Kevin and I,
have a great time tasting all of those yummy tomatoes. Great
time, great prizes! Don't miss out -
register now!
~
Shelly
Time To Divide Iris...
There's some very rewarding summer work to be done right now.
It's time to divide your irises. After 3 to 5 years of growth
irises will become crowded and should be divided so they don't
starve each other for soil nutrients. Here's a few simple steps
to get the job done:
- Cut the leaves
back to one-third their length.
- Dig the rhizome
clump with a fork or spade and wash the soil off with a hose.
- Cut the rhizomes
apart so that each section has at least one healthy fan of
leaves and firm, white roots.
- Discard soft
rhizomes and any older leafless rhizomes toward the center of
the clump.
- Plant the
divisions 12 - 18 inches apart in shallow holes in a sunny
location.
- Water immediately
and again in ten days if rain is scarce.
Following
these steps now allows adequate time for the divisions to get
established before winter and also reduces the chance of frost
heaving in late winter.
Bulbs That Bloom In Autumn...
The savviest of Savvygardeners know that there are a number
of autumn-blooming bulbs that really perk up the fall garden and
landscape. Autumn crocus (Colchicum autumnale) also known as
meadow saffron, mysteria, or naked boys produces pink to lavender
crocus-like flowers in the fall and there is no foliage present
when the plants are in bloom. Dark green leaves will emerge in
the spring, remain until summer, then turn yellow and die to the
ground. After which, the flowers magically appear in the fall
again.
Colchicums
should be planted immediately after purchase or delivery in
August or September or they will start to bloom in their
packaging. Plant the corms in clumps, 2-3 inches deep in
well-drained soil in full sun to partial shade. Pretty!
Don't Miss This One...
Every year the K-State Horticultural Research Center has a
wonderful open house. It's being held at the
Research Center this Saturday (July 30th)
from 8AM to 3PM. This is a
great opportunity to see hundreds of
different cultivars of flowers, fruits and vegetables. Many are
plants that won't reach the market for several years (or at all
depending on the results of the tests and trials).
Click here for more information...
Dodder Is A Bother...
Field dodder (Cuscuta
campestris) is a unique parasitic annual plant that also is known
as strangleweed or devil's hair. It is composed of golden yellow
"threads" that twine over other plants and attach themselves with
short, suction-cup-like suckers that arise from the bottom of the
dodder stems. These suckers penetrate the stems of host plants to
obtain nourishment. Though dodder has leaves, they are so small
and scalelike the plant appears leafless. Flowers are small,
whitish, appearing from April to October and will produce a
seedpod that is two-celled and four-seeded.
Because dodder
is an annual, it must reproduce from seed. Plants present now
will be killed by the first frost this fall. Seed may sprout in
the spring or lie dormant for a number of years. Germination
takes place in the soil, but roots die as soon as the plant finds
an acceptable host. After attachment, dodder lives completely off
the host plant. Unfortunately dodder cannot be destroyed by pulling it off the
host plants because remaining stem pieces will continue to grow. Dacthal (DCPA) is a preemergence
herbicide that can be used to kill the germinating seed if used
at the highest rate for your soil type but is only available to
professionals. Glyphosate (Round-up, Kleen-up, Killzall, etc.) is
effective on dodder but is nonselective and will
kill whatever it hits, including the host plants.
Source & Photo
Bitter Cucumbers?
A bitter taste in cucumbers is the result of stress that can
be caused by a number of factors, including heredity, moisture,
temperature, soil characteristics and disease. Most often this
occurs during the hot part of the summer or later in the growing
season.
Two
compounds, cucurbitacins B and C, give rise to the bitter taste.
Though often only the stem end is affected, at times the entire
fruit is bitter. Also, most of the bitter taste is found in and
just under the skin. Bitter fruit is not the result of cucumbers
cross-pollinating with squash or melons. These plants cannot
cross-pollinate with one another.
Often newer
varieties are less likely to become bitter than older ones.
Proper cultural care is also often helpful. Make sure your plants
have the following:
- Well-drained soil
with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5.
- Plenty of organic
matter also helps.
- Mulch helps
conserve moisture and keep roots cool during hot, dry weather.
- Adequate water
especially during the fruiting season.
- Disease and
insect control.
Source
Revitalize Herbs...
If your basil and thyme look like they
need an extreme makeover you can revitalize them by cutting them
back severely. This will stimulate a clean new flush of growth,
free of any insect and disease damage incurred since spring.
Orange And Dusty?
Probably Rusty...
Have you discovered an orange dust
clinging to your shoes
after walking through the lawn?
You're not alone. Our cool, damp spring and
summer have accelerated the onset of Rust Disease of turfgrass.
Rust diseases attack all turfgrasses, but are most often
found on susceptible Bluegrass, tall fescue ryegrass and Zoysia
in late August and early September. Unlike some other turf fungi,
this particular fungus (Puccinia), can do serious damage
resulting in thinning and winterkill.
The best protection is healthy turf management,
including proper levels of
fertilizer, watering, and mowing at the
recommended height (normally 3 inches at
this time of the year). Avoid night watering.
An application of fungicide may be
helpful before the turfgrass enters winter dormancy. The most
commonly suggested fungicides for rust control are products such
as chlorothalonil (Daconil) and triadimefon ( Bayleton). As
always, apply following label directions.
Finally... "The
heritage of the past is the seed that brings forth the harvest of
the future." ~
"Heritage" Inscription, National Archives |