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April 18, 2007 |
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After The Freeze...
Patience, a virtue for some but not for me. In the 44 years I
have been on this earth patience has never been one of my strong
suits. I hate waiting. Just like I hate waiting now. But what
else is there to do? We have to wait and be patient to see what
is going to happen to all of our plants that were burnt by the
freeze. I have cut most of the dead foliage (it is black) away
from my hostas. I am hoping (never having been through something
like this before) that Mother Nature will surprise me with new
fresh shoots from the original stem. So for now waiting it is,
much to my dismay.
Check out our video on this subject.
We are getting
ready to do a major landscape renovation.
Cole Welch with
Tectonic,
Kevin and myself have worked and re-worked some plans and I
think we've got it! We will be showing before, during and after
pictures. We will dedicate a section on our website which will
show you every step we take to put together what we hope is an
amazing garden. You will be able to view our plans, see plant
choices made and I why we made those particular choices. I am
really looking forward to the project and I hope that you are
too. Keep reading so once we begin the project you will be one
of the first to know. Stay tuned!
~
Shelly
Bulb Boosters...
This last round of warm weather
seems to have accelerated most of the area's flowering spring
bulbs. Our daffodils and tulips took a bow over the weekend and,
like most others in Kansas City, won't be seen again until next
spring. If you want to get the most
out of them next spring you need to help them a little right
now.
Bulbs use
their foliage to acquire and transport nutrients necessary for
future growth. If you cut or remove the foliage too early you
will starve the bulb and consequently reduce its chances for
strong growth next spring. Cut the stems back as you would if
you were cutting them for a vase. Leave the foliage alone until
it has withered on its own. Only then should you clear it from
the garden.
Growing Groundcovers...
You can trim pachysandra and other low groundcovers by mowing
them with your lawnmower
(video). Set the mowing height at around three
to four inches. This will thicken the groundcover and help
prevent weeds. Be sure to remove the clippings by gently raking.
Boston ivy, English ivy, purple winter creeper, and cranberry
cotoneaster all benefit from springtime trimming.
Source
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A Clean Break...
When transplanting flowers and veggies to the garden make
sure you break off the rims of your peat pots just below ground
level. Any portion of the peat pot sticking up above the soil
surface will wick away moisture and deprive your plants of much
needed water. That would be a shame considering how hard you
worked getting them this far!
Clematis Wilt...
The most serious disease of clematis is commonly called
clematis wilt - a stem rot/leaf
spot disease caused by the fungus, Ascochyta clematidina, which
mainly affects large‑flowered clematis hybrids. The symptoms are
very defining and include sudden stem collapse, often just as
the flower buds are about to open. Within just a few days the
stems and its leaves turn black. Leaf
veins often develop a purple coloration. One or more stems of
the diseased plant may be affected or all aboveground parts of
the plant can be killed down to just below the soil level.
Often, an
affected plant will recover after a year or two.
Of course, prevention is the best medicine. Here's how:
- Choose a favorable planting site with 6 or more hours of
sun daily, rich, well‑drained soil with pH about 7.0, and be
relatively open to ensure good air circulation.
- Select the most resistant plants. Species clematis
and/or small‑flowered hybrids seem to be more resistant than
large-flowered forms.
- Keep the clematis area free of plant debris on a
year‑round basis. Take special care to avoid injury to stem
and roots since the wilt fungus requires a wound to begin
its deadly work.
- Avoid damaging the roots. Do not cultivate the soil
around clematis plants and maintain good mulch.
- Give good culture. Maintain good growing conditions to
keep all clematis plants as stress‑free as possible.
- In the event that plants become infected, cut diseased
stems just below ground level and destroy them. Spray any
remaining, healthy parts of the plant and surrounding soil
with a protective fungicide such as myclobutanil.
Source
Just Like Starting Over...
This time of year we are asked by
many gardeners why their forsythia or lilacs
look so bad. Many
claim that some of their
flowering branches look great while
other branches of the same plant have
virtually no flowers at all. This is actually a very common
problem with forsythia, lilacs and
other flowering shrubs. Basically they have become too "woody"
and need rejuvenation. Simply cut the tired branches to a point
just above ground level. Next year's growth will include many
more flowers.
To stay on
top of this process Savvygardeners will rejuvenate
one-third of the
flowering shrub every year. That way none of the
branches are ever any older than three years.
Lawn Mowing
Safety...
Gas-powered lawn mowers may be the most
dangerous tool regularly used around the home. They create hot
exhaust fumes. Their blades spin 2,000 to 4,000 times per minute
and can turn small toys and garden debris into deadly missiles.
According to
Kansas State University Research and Extension, U.S. safety
experts estimate lawn mower accidents severely injure 75,000
people every year. The minor accidents could easily number in
the millions.
Here are two
very good safety tips to follow:
- Before mowing, search the yard
- every time. Look for
small objects that may be hidden from obvious view. Most
lawn mower blades run at 100 to 200 miles per hour. So, if
one hits a rock, wire, acorn or stick, that object can
become deadly: both airborne and fast as the wink of an eye.
- Do not mow when anyone else is in the vicinity of the
mower itself and any projectiles it may create.
More lawn
mower safety tips
can be found here...
Dealing With Dandelions...
We're getting lots of e-mail asking about weeds (especially
dandelions) in lawns. Keep in mind two things:
- Dense
healthy turf is the most effective weed control. Proper
mowing, fertilization, and irrigation will go a long way in
controlling weeds.
-
Fall
is the best time to control weeds.
That being
said, you can spot-apply broad spectrum herbicides to lawn
weeds. Just be careful where you
spray. Drifting herbicides are going to damage or kill the
plants they touch.
Finally... "April's rare
capricious loveliness."
~
Julia Dorr |