This Week's Gardening Tips from the Savvygardener
Missouri Organic Mulch, Compost, Bulk Soil
In This Issue
~ Lawns: To Seed or Not to Seed ~ St. Pat's and Potatoes ~ The Old Heave Ho
~ Special Delivery ~ Gardening Without A Garden ~ This Week's Photos
~ Plant By The Rules ~ Healthy Lawn Diet ~ Inspiration
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Feature Articles

~ All About Composting
~ All About Mulch
~ Worm Composting
~ Houseplant Care
~ When to Start
Seeds Indoors
~ Seed Starting Indoors
~ Vegetable Garden Calendar
~ Seed Starting Tomatoes


Shrub Pruning Calendar
~ Pruning Clematis 
~ Gardening in the Shade
~ Summer-Flowering Bulb Care
~ Drought-Tolerant Flowers for KC
~ Preparing for a Soil Test
~ Changing the pH of Your Soil
~ Growing Herbs
~ When to Harvest Vegetables
~ Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
~ Organic Pesticides & Biopesticides
~ Cold Frames & Hot Beds
~ When to Divide Perennials
~ Dividing Spring Blooming Perennials
~ Forcing Bulbs Indoors
~ Overseeding A Lawn
~ Pruning Trees
~ Pruning Shrubs
~ Planting Trees
~ Deer Resistant Plants
~ Trees that Survived the Storm
~ Stump Removal Options for the Homeowner
~ More...
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This Week's Photos

~ March 11, 2009 ~

A Fond Farewell...
We had to have a large Ash tree in our front yard taken down on Monday (photos). Mission Hills city Arborist, George Eib came by to take a look at the fungus growing on the outside of the tree. He told me it was time. The fungus was slowly destroying the tree. My friend Mark Bartlow with Ryan Lawn & Tree had told me a year or so ago that it was diseased and would eventually have to come down. I always hate to see a tree go. They add so much to the landscape - shade, beauty, height. All things important to any landscape. Now that the tree is gone our front lawn looks naked. Another tree will have to be planted. Mr. Eib suggested a Red Oak and it looks as if that is the direction we are headed. A new tree will be nice but it won't be as big as the one taken down. I am afraid that we will have to wait many years to appreciate the beauty of the newly planted tree.

Don't forget about our gardening friends in Leavenworth. This weekend is their "No Place Like Home" Home and Garden Show. For more information about times and location follow this link... It looks as if this crazy colder weather will be hanging around for a few days so it is a perfect time to be inside with warm, sunny ideas.

A hard working group of dads at Shawnee Mission South, involved in a group called Father's Connection, are putting together their spring fund raiser. Buy crabgrass control, weed and feed and cypress mulch from this organization and help support Shawnee Mission South. For more information on how you can help these dads make a difference click here. Pre-order and make it easy!

~ Shelly   

Spring Lawns: To Seed or Not to Seed...
As spring approaches you will no doubt start inspecting your lawn only to re-discover that it is less than perfect. Most of us have bare spots or entire areas that are begging for new seed. Reliable sources will tell you that spring is the second best time of year to plant grass seed (the best time being fall). What they don't tell you is that in this case second best may not be good enough at all. We'll try to explain...

Fall is the best time to plant because seeds get the double benefit of warm soil and cooler air temperatures. Fall planted grass also establishes a strong root system even after the grass blades have stopped growing for the season. By contrast spring sown grass seed gets cool air temperatures but not warm soil - making it tougher to germinate. In many cases the grass is not established well enough to take the heat imposed on it by the typical Kansas City summer. More often than not, your new grass is toast by mid-July.

This doesn't mean you shouldn't plant new grass in the spring. You just need to be aware of the risks. At our house we try to limit spring grass seeding to small bare patches and hope for the best. For bigger jobs consider contacting a professional lawn care company (we use Ryan Lawn & Tree) to improve your chances.

Special Delivery...
Thankfully most catalogs don't deliver your plant orders until it's time to plant them. Unfortunately sometimes local conditions are different than "usual" and your plants arrive a bit early for planting. Don't panic, but don't ignore them either! Your mail-order plants do need some care in the time between their arrival and your ability to plant them. Unwrap them immediately and check for specific directions on early care. Lacking this just keep them cool and moist in a protected area until you can safely get them in the ground.

Plant By The Rules...
Planning on planting a tree (or two or three) this spring? Make sure you do it right. That tree is supposed to be around for a long time. Our friends at K-State Research & Extension recently published 10 Rules for Planting Trees. Check it out here...

St. Pat's and Potatoes...
While it's traditional to plant potatoes on St. Patrick's Day Savvygardeners should be aware of two assumptions made in setting this date. First, that your soil is consistently 45º or higher. The recent warm-up means sunny locations may be ready.

The second assumption is that the soil is dry enough to be worked. Working in overly moist soil can make a mess that will be hard to correct later. How can you tell? Grab a handful of soil and squeeze. If it holds together like clay it's too wet. If it crumbles like a cupcake it's ready for planting.

Watch the weather and your soil closely. You really want to get those 'taters planted between now and the end of March.

Vegetable Gardening Without A Garden...
If your outdoor space is limited, consider gardening without a garden. Tomatoes, peppers, lettuce and many other vegetables do well when grown in containers. Barrels, window boxes, cut-off milk jugs, almost any container that provides good drainage will do as long as it is deep enough to support the plant. Minimum depths for some container-grown vegetables:

  • 4 inches - lettuce, radishes, beets, low-growing herbs
  • 6 inches - chard, turnips, short-rooted carrots
  • 8 inches - eggplant, peppers, bush cucumbers
  • 10 inches - cauliflower, broccoli
  • 12 inches - tomatoes, long-rooted carrots


Healthy Lawn Diet...
Though advertising for lawn fertilizers is at its yearly high, most lawns don’t really need fertilizer now. Do not apply high rates of nitrogen (more than 0.75 lbs N/1000 sq. ft.) to your lawn from March through early May. Too much nitrogen at this time of the year will lead to problems later this summer such as poor root growth and disease. Additionally, since spring rains play havoc with mowing schedules, nitrogen fertilization can further complicate your mowing schedule by causing grass plants to grow too fast. Instead of applying fertilizer now, it is better to wait until mid-to late-May and apply up to ¾ lbs N/1000 sq. ft. with a fertilizer that contains mostly slow-release nitrogen.

The Old Heave Ho...
Temperatures have been jumping around a bit lately but a well deserved thaw in the soil may be a permanent thing soon. Scout around your garden for signs of recent heaving - the forcing of shallow-rooted plants out of the soil due to the freezing and thawing of the ground. Don't tamp the plants or the surrounding soil as this may overly compact the soil. Simply give them a gentle push back into place.

"Live in each season as it passes;
breathe the air, drink the drink,
taste the fruit, and resign yourself
to the influences of each."

~ Henry David Thoreau



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