This Week's Gardening Tips from the Savvygardener
Missouri Organic Mulch, Compost, Bulk Soil
 
In This Issue
~ When Good Mulch Goes Bad ~ Minimize Mosquitoes ~ Taxing Times For Turf
~ Is That A Volcano In Your Garden? ~ Dealing With Storm Damage ~ This Week's Photos
~ Blackspot On Roses ~ Fruit Dropping, Branch Propping ~ Inspiration
 
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~ All About Composting
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~ Houseplant Care
~ When to Start
Seeds Indoors
~ Seed Starting Indoors
~ Vegetable Garden Calendar
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Shrub Pruning Calendar
~ Pruning Clematis 
~ Gardening in the Shade
~ Summer-Flowering Bulb Care
~ Drought-Tolerant Flowers for KC
~ Preparing for a Soil Test
~ Changing the pH of Your Soil
~ Growing Herbs
~ When to Harvest Vegetables
~ Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
~ Organic Pesticides & Biopesticides
~ Cold Frames & Hot Beds
~ When to Divide Perennials
~ Dividing Spring Blooming Perennials
~ Forcing Bulbs Indoors
~ Overseeding A Lawn
~ Pruning Trees
~ Pruning Shrubs
~ Planting Trees
~ Deer Resistant Plants
~ Trees that Survived the Storm
~ Stump Removal Options for the Homeowner
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This Week's Photos

~ June 10, 2009 ~

A Really Rosy Weekend...
What a stormy day yesterday! There were periods of torrential rain, bright lightning and extremely loud thunder. At the height of the storm we actually lost power for a few minutes, pretty exciting! Nothing like a good stormy day to sit around and do nothing. I caught up on paperwork, did a lot of laundry and enjoyed the opportunity of being trapped inside making me concentrate on other things that needed to be done. I am not very focused on things that need to be done inside. I am an outdoors kind of gal so if the opportunity is there I will be outside, not inside sitting at a computer or doing laundry. You can see where this could become a problem - before you know it no one in the house has anything to wear and starts to wonder when clean laundry will appear again. It has happened several times and I sure that it will continue. I guess if that is as bad as it gets what's the worse thing that could happen? No clean socks?

Kevin and I rode our bikes to Loose Park on Sunday for the re-dedication of the Laura Conyers Smith Municipal Rose Garden. It is hard to believe that the Rose Garden today is the realization of a dream that began in 1931. A small group of spirited citizens under the imaginative and enthusiastic leadership of Laura Conyers Smith established the Kansas City Rose Society and its public garden in the Jacob L. Loose Memorial Park. So many roses - different sizes, colors and scents (photos). It was hard to pick a favorite. I found myself being attracted to color first and then scent. Then I would wonder upon some that had the most interesting bud. It was a wonderful time and I'm glad we took the time to spend some time walking around. Beauty in its truest form.

~ Shelly   

When Good Mulch Goes Bad...
There's bound to be a few Savvygardeners out there that had a pile of mulch delivered before or during the rains we've had recently. If you didn't get that mulch covered be careful. Hardwood mulch can become a real problem if left too long in a damp pile. Not only does it smell bad once it "sours" it can adversely affect plants that it comes in contact with. Symptoms look like fertilizer or pesticide burn or water stress. Damage can be severe enough to actually kill plants - yikes! Depending on the extent of the injury, plants are often able to recover. Savvygardeners should water affected plants during hot, dry periods to prevent further stress.

Mulch that has soured can still be used if it is "mellowed" before application. Simply spread the mulch in shallow layers and allow it to air out for several days until it no longer smells.

Is That A Volcano In Your Garden?
Speaking of mulch... When mulching try to avoid creating "mulch volcanoes" at the base of your trees. Unfortunately it is quite common to see trees mulched in this manner - a ring of mulch that gets progressively deeper as it approaches the trunk. While this is better than no mulch at all the University of Missouri Extension advises us that there are some real problems to consider:

  • When mulch is placed more than about 4 inches deep, roots tend to "migrate" up into the mulch during rainy periods or when the area is irrigated. Then, when drought conditions occur, the plant may come under severe stress because many of its roots are growing in a material with much less water holding capacity than real soil.
  • The surfaces of the mulch volcanoes can become hydrophobic due to fungal activity and will act as very effective umbrellas, shedding water to the surrounding turf. This could easily kill a young tree by depriving it of much needed water.
  • Other possible problems with mulch volcanoes are promotion of fungal canker diseases by constant moisture around the lower trunk, stress from poor gas exchange by the cells in the bark and damage from rodents that may take up residence in the volcano.

Source

Blackspot On Roses...
A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungal disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.

Cultural practices are the first line of defense.

  1. Don’t plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Follow this link for a list of blackspot resistant varieties.
  2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works best with roses.
  3. Plant roses in sunny areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
  4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.

If needed, gardeners can protect foliage with a regular spray program of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox), triforine (Funginex), thiophanate methyl (Fertilome Halt) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Fungicide, Garden Disease Control.

Source

Minimize Mosquitoes...
One of our least favorite parts of summer is the arrival (or re-emergence) of mosquitoes. This year is no exception. Eliminating sources of standing water is the most effective way of keeping mosquito populations in check but it is sometimes impractical for gardeners. Here are some good tips for dealing with standing water that can't be removed.

  • Drain or empty the water in dog bowls, wading pools and birdbaths at least once-a-week. This will ensure egg-stage mosquitoes never have time to reach maturity.
  • Irrigate lawns and gardens carefully. Where soils have high clay content, for example, irrigating slowly or irrigating several times lightly will allow the clay to absorb the water, rather than causing puddles and runoff.
  • Stock ornamental ponds with mosquito larvae-eating fish, such as goldfish.
  • Remove in-water plants from the edges of garden ponds to allow fish access to the larvae living and developing there.
  • Using a retail product to control mosquito larvae will be more effective and less costly than trying to control the flying adults.

 

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Dealing With Storm Damage...
The Kansas City metro has been hammered by storms recently. As always, some areas are hit harder than others. If your trees were victims of wind, hail, or lightning you'll want to make sure to act quickly and appropriately to ensure proper recovery. Iowa State Extension has published a great article called Managing Storm Damaged Trees.
You can view the PDF here.

Fruit Dropping, Branch Propping...
Don't be alarmed if tree fruit is dropping this time of year. It's just Mother nature's natural thinning process designed to prevent excessive loads. Just in case the branch loads remain too heavy you should thin remaining fruit by hand or prop up heavy branches to avoid breakage. Most fruit should be spaced 6 to 8 inches apart on a branch.

Source

Taxing Times For Turf...
The next few months will likely be very taxing for your fescue or bluegrass lawn. Long, hot and humid days, with little rainfall can make even the greenest lawns wilt. While it's probably not possible to keep your turf looking perfectly lush and green all summer you can prepare it for the heat by raising the cutting height of your mower. Fescues and bluegrass should be cut at a height of 3 to 3½ inches. Determine your mowing frequency by cutting no more than one-third of the blade height with each cutting. This means cutting when it reaches 4½ inches or so.

Finally...
"Flowers and even fruit are only the beginning. In the seed lies the life and the future."

~ Marion Zimmer Bradley

 

 


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