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~ April 14, 2010 ~
Prisoner Of Pollen...
It looks like I was wrong about the heat not sticking around. It has been in the high
70's and low 80's for the past week and a half. Things are blooming like crazy and
unfortunately I am being held prisoner in my own house. I have severe allergies and
it is unbearable to be outside right now due to the high levels of pollen in the air.
I am sure you have all seen it lying around. This gross, thick, green powder that has
covered everything. Ewww... it really is disgusting. I am praying for a good rain to
wash all the yuck away. I really want to be outside planting. I just planted pansies
last week and I'm already thinking about replacing them with annuals. I know, the rule
of thumb for annuals is Mother's Day but part of me can hardly stand waiting another three
weeks. The lows have been holding steadily in the 50's. There is a cold front moving our
way this weekend giving us a taste of spring like temperatures. The highs should be in the
mid to upper 60's and the lows in the mid 40's for the weekend. Hopefully it will rain.
Everything could use a drink and I would like for the pollen to settle so I can get back
outside to work.
I have actually given the go ahead to plant vegetables to one of our many community subscribers.
She is becoming impatient like so many of us. The only thing that I would worry about is a rogue
frost. If that were to happen, of course we would let you know and then you would have to scurry
around to protect everything from getting bitten. I think that I am going to take the chance and
get a jump on the growing season. Yep, you heard it here. If we go ahead and plant now the risk
of a frost is 40% and will continue to decrease as we make our way to the end of April. Charge on
fellow gardeners!
~ Shelly
Bulb Boosters...
This current round of warm weather will certainly accelerate most of
the area's flowering spring bulbs. Some daffodils and tulips
(photos) are hanging
in there but, like most others in Kansas City, will soon be gone and won't be
seen again until next spring. If you want to get the most out of them
next spring you need to help them a little right
now.
Bulbs use their foliage to acquire and transport nutrients necessary
for future growth. If you cut or remove the foliage too early you will
starve the bulb and consequently reduce its chances for strong growth
next spring. Cut the stems back as you would if you were cutting them
for a vase. Leave the foliage alone until it has withered on its own.
Only then should you clear it from the garden.
Growing Groundcovers...
You can trim pachysandra and other low groundcovers by mowing them with
your lawnmower
(video). Set the mowing height at
around three to four inches. This will thicken the groundcover and help
prevent weeds. Be sure to remove the clippings by gently raking. Boston
ivy, English ivy, purple winter creeper, and cranberry cotoneaster all
benefit from springtime trimming.
A Clean Break...
When transplanting flowers and veggies to the garden make sure you break
off the rims of your peat pots just below ground level. Any portion of the
peat pot sticking up above the soil surface will wick away moisture and
deprive your plants of much needed water. That would be a shame considering
how hard you worked getting them this far!
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Flower/Horticulturist Needed
Private Golf & Country Club in OP, KS
seeking a creative full time flower/horticulturist for overall plant health
upkeep and flower bed maintenance. MUST HAVE EXPERIENCE! $12-$15/hour depending
on experience level.
Please send resume to:
ajans@kc.rr.com
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Clematis Wilt...
The most serious disease of clematis is commonly called clematis wilt
- a stem rot/leaf spot disease caused by the fungus, Ascochyta clematidina,
which mainly affects large-flowered clematis hybrids. The symptoms are very
defining and include sudden stem collapse, often just as the flower buds are
about to open. Within just a few days the stems and its leaves turn black.
Leaf veins often develop a purple coloration. One or more stems of the diseased
plant may be affected or all aboveground parts of the plant can be killed down
to just below the soil level.
Often, an affected plant will recover after a year or two. Of course, prevention
is the best medicine. Here's how:
- Choose a favorable planting site with 6 or more hours of
sun daily, rich, well-drained soil with pH about 7.0, and be
relatively open to ensure good air circulation.
- Select the most resistant plants. Species clematis
and/or small-flowered hybrids seem to be more resistant than
large-flowered forms.
- Keep the clematis area free of plant debris on a
year-round basis. Take special care to avoid injury to stem
and roots since the wilt fungus requires a wound to begin
its deadly work.
- Avoid damaging the roots. Do not cultivate the soil
around clematis plants and maintain good mulch.
- Give good culture. Maintain good growing conditions to
keep all clematis plants as stress-free as possible.
- In the event that plants become infected, cut diseased
stems just below ground level and destroy them. Spray any
remaining, healthy parts of the plant and surrounding soil
with a protective fungicide such as myclobutanil.
Source
Rejuvenate Forsythia, Lilac...
This time of year we are asked by many gardeners why their forsythia or
lilacs look so bad. Many claim that some of their flowering branches look
great while other branches of the same plant have virtually no flowers at all.
This is actually a very common problem with forsythia, lilacs and other flowering
shrubs. Basically they have become too "woody" and need rejuvenation. Simply cut
the tired branches to a point just above ground level. Next year's growth will
include many more flowers.
To stay on top of this process Savvygardeners will rejuvenate one-third of the
flowering shrub every year. That way none of the branches are ever any older than
three years.
Lawn Mowing Safety...
Gas-powered lawn mowers may be the most dangerous tool regularly used around the home.
They create hot exhaust fumes. Their blades spin 2,000 to 4,000 times per minute and
can turn small toys and garden debris into deadly missiles. According to
K-State University Research and Extension, U.S. safety
experts estimate lawn mower accidents severely injure 75,000 people every year. The
minor accidents could easily number in the millions.
Here are two very good safety tips to follow:
- Before mowing, search the yard
- every time. Look for small objects that may be hidden from obvious view. Most
lawn mower blades run at 100 to 200 miles per hour. So, if
one hits a rock, wire, acorn or stick, that object can
become deadly: both airborne and fast as the wink of an eye.
- Do not mow when anyone else is in the vicinity of the
mower itself and any projectiles it may create.
More lawn mower safety tips
can be found here...
Dealing With Dandelions...
We're getting lots of e-mail asking about weeds (especially dandelions) in lawns. Keep in
mind two things:
- Dense
healthy turf is the most effective weed control. Proper
mowing, fertilization, and irrigation will go a long way toward
controlling weeds.
-
Fall is the best time to control weeds.
That being
said, you can spot-apply broad spectrum herbicides to lawn
weeds. Just be careful where you spray. Drifting herbicides
are going to damage or kill all the plants they touch.
Finally...
"One of the daintiest joys of spring is the falling of soft rain
among blossoms. The shining and apparently weightless
drops come pattering into the maytree with a sound of soft
laughter; one alights on a white petal with a little inaudible
tap; then petal and raindrop fall together down the steeps
of green and white, accompanied by troops of other petals,
each with her attendant drop and her passing breath of scent."
~ Mary Webb
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