This Week's Gardening Tips from the Savvygardener
Missouri Organic Mulch, Compost, Bulk Soil
 
In This Issue
~ When Good Mulch Goes Bad ~ Minimize Mosquitoes ~ Taxing Times For Turf
~ Is That A Volcano In Your Garden? ~ Dealing With Storm Damage ~ This Week's Photos
~ Blackspot On Roses ~ Fruit Dropping, Branch Propping ~ Inspiration


 
Visit Our Website
Previous Issues

Advertise With Us

the Savvygardener Community
~ Gardening Forums, Blogs, Photos, Events and more...

Donations

Feature Articles

~ All About Composting
~ All About Mulch
~ Worm Composting
~ Houseplant Care
~ When to Start
Seeds Indoors
~ Seed Starting Indoors
~ Vegetable Garden Calendar
~ Seed Starting Tomatoes

~

Shrub Pruning Calendar
~ Pruning Clematis 
~ Gardening in the Shade
~ Summer-Flowering Bulb Care
~ Drought-Tolerant Flowers for KC
~ Preparing for a Soil Test
~ Changing the pH of Your Soil
~ Growing Herbs
~ When to Harvest Vegetables
~ Integrated Pest Management (IPM)
~ Organic Pesticides & Biopesticides
~ Cold Frames & Hot Beds
~ When to Divide Perennials
~ Dividing Spring Blooming Perennials
~ Forcing Bulbs Indoors
~ Overseeding A Lawn
~ Pruning Trees
~ Pruning Shrubs
~ Planting Trees
~ Deer Resistant Plants
~ Trees that Survived the Storm
~ Stump Removal Options for the Homeowner
~ More...
   
Local Sponsors
~ Family Tree Nursery
~ Johnson Farms
~ Missouri Organic
~ Ryan Lawn & Tree
   
 
Subscribe
 
Privacy Pledge




 


 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 

This Week's Photos

~ June 9, 2010 ~

Deluge...
Whoa, that was quite a storm we had last night. We had four inches of rain here and I know that some areas received as much as six. At times during the storm it was impossible to see across the street it was raining so hard. What a deluge! Unfortunately we received a bit of water in our basement. UGH! Always something. I took a look outside this morning and noticed most of my perennials pounded into the ground. That kind of rain really beats up the plants and just tends to run off. The good news, no need to water anytime soon!

I took a trip to Marion, Kansas on Monday and I couldn't believe how beautiful the drive was. I am originally from McPherson, Kansas and my parents are presently settled in Marion. I have driven the Flint Hills many times and always forget how beautiful the drive is. I love driving over one hill to the next catching a glimpse of cows and horses all perfectly happy grazing amongst the green grass. The wheat was such a beautiful color of gold. It was certainly picture worthy however I do not have the eye or the talent of taking a picture that my husband possesses. I was delighted to see the deep contrast of the golden wheat next to the field of deep green soybeans. The Kansas countryside is beautiful. Always worthy of a drive.

~ Shelly   

When Good Mulch Goes Bad...
There's bound to be a few Savvygardeners out there that had a pile of mulch delivered before or during the rains we've had recently. If you didn't get that mulch covered be careful. Hardwood mulch can become a real problem if left too long in a damp pile. Not only does it smell bad once it "sours" it can adversely affect plants that it comes in contact with. Symptoms look like fertilizer or pesticide burn or water stress. Damage can be severe enough to actually kill plants - yikes! Depending on the extent of the injury, plants are often able to recover. Savvygardeners should water affected plants during hot, dry periods to prevent further stress.

Mulch that has soured can still be used if it is "mellowed" before application. Simply spread the mulch in shallow layers and allow it to air out for several days until it no longer smells.

Is That A Volcano In Your Garden?
Speaking of mulch... When mulching try to avoid creating "mulch volcanoes" at the base of your trees. Unfortunately it is quite common to see trees mulched in this manner - a ring of mulch that gets progressively deeper as it approaches the trunk. While this is better than no mulch at all the University of Missouri Extension advises us that there are some real problems to consider:

  • When mulch is placed more than about 4 inches deep, roots tend to "migrate" up into the mulch during rainy periods or when the area is irrigated. Then, when drought conditions occur, the plant may come under severe stress because many of its roots are growing in a material with much less water holding capacity than real soil.
  • The surfaces of the mulch volcanoes can become hydrophobic due to fungal activity and will act as very effective umbrellas, shedding water to the surrounding turf. This could easily kill a young tree by depriving it of much needed water.
  • Other possible problems with mulch volcanoes are promotion of fungal canker diseases by constant moisture around the lower trunk, stress from poor gas exchange by the cells in the bark and damage from rodents that may take up residence in the volcano.

Source

Blackspot On Roses...
A common disease of roses is blackspot, a fungal disease that can cause defoliation of susceptible plants. Look for dark, circular lesions with feathery edges on the top surface of the leaves and raised purple spots on young canes. Infected leaves will often yellow between spots and eventually drop. The infection usually starts on the lower leaves and works its way up the plant. Blackspot is most severe under conditions of high relative humidity (>85%), warm temperatures (75 to 85 degrees F) and six or more hours of leaf wetness. Newly expanding leaves are most vulnerable to infection. The fungus can survive on fallen leaves or canes and is disseminated primarily by splashing water.

Cultural practices are the first line of defense.

  1. Donít plant susceptible roses unless you are willing to use fungicide sprays. Follow this link for a list of blackspot resistant varieties.
  2. Keep irrigation water off the foliage. Drip irrigation works best with roses.
  3. Plant roses in sunny areas with good air movement to limit the amount of time the foliage is wet.
  4. Remove diseased leaves that have fallen and prune out infected rose canes to minimize inoculum.

If needed, gardeners can protect foliage with a regular spray program of effective fungicides. Recommended fungicides include tebuconazole (Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers and Shrubs), myclobutanil (Immunox), triforine (Funginex), thiophanate methyl (Fertilome Halt) and chlorothalonil (Broad Spectrum Fungicide, Garden Disease Control.

Source

Minimize Mosquitoes...
One of our least favorite parts of summer is the arrival (or re-emergence) of mosquitoes. This year is no exception. Eliminating sources of standing water is the most effective way of keeping mosquito populations in check but it is sometimes impractical for gardeners. Here are some good tips for dealing with standing water that can't be removed.

  • Drain or empty the water in dog bowls, wading pools and birdbaths at least once-a-week. This will ensure egg-stage mosquitoes never have time to reach maturity.
  • Irrigate lawns and gardens carefully. Where soils have high clay content, for example, irrigating slowly or irrigating several times lightly will allow the clay to absorb the water, rather than causing puddles and runoff.
  • Stock ornamental ponds with mosquito larvae-eating fish, such as goldfish.
  • Remove in-water plants from the edges of garden ponds to allow fish access to the larvae living and developing there.
  • Using a retail product to control mosquito larvae will be more effective and less costly than trying to control the flying adults.

 

Dealing With Storm Damage...
The Kansas City metro has been hammered by storms recently. As always, some areas are hit harder than others. If your trees were victims of wind, hail, or lightning you'll want to make sure to act quickly and appropriately to ensure proper recovery. Iowa State Extension has published a great article called Managing Storm Damaged Trees.
You can view the PDF here.

Fruit Dropping, Branch Propping...
Don't be alarmed if tree fruit is dropping this time of year. It's just Mother nature's natural thinning process designed to prevent excessive loads. Just in case the branch loads remain too heavy you should thin remaining fruit by hand or prop up heavy branches to avoid breakage. Most fruit should be spaced 6 to 8 inches apart on a branch.

Source

Taxing Times For Turf...
The next few months will likely be very taxing for your fescue or bluegrass lawn. Long, hot and humid days, with little rainfall can make even the greenest lawns wilt. While it's probably not possible to keep your turf looking perfectly lush and green all summer you can prepare it for the heat by raising the cutting height of your mower. Fescues and bluegrass should be cut at a height of 3 to 3Ĺ inches. Determine your mowing frequency by cutting no more than one-third of the blade height with each cutting. This means cutting when it reaches 4Ĺ inches or so.

Finally...
"Why are wildflowers so important to those of us who care at all for flowers? For me, anyway, it is because they come like gifts from God (or Nature), and to encounter them in their natural habitat is an extraordinary aesthetic pleasure."

~ Katherine S. White

 

 


© 1999-2010 Savvygardener.com Inc. All rights reserved.  If you wish to copy, transmit, or otherwise duplicate any of the material from our website please ask us first.  Thank you.